You need a machine, a die set, button fronts, and button backs.  Unfortunately, buttons from your old Dritz, Prym, and Maxant cover button kits will NOT work with button machines, and you will need to buy new button parts.

The good news is... our buttons cost less than dressmaker buttons, so you save money!

I washed a dress I made with soft shell buttons, and the rust went straight through the fabric.  How do I know your buttons won't do the same?

We don't stock steel or black oxide shells (also called "soft shells").  We specify brass, nickel, aluminum, and other corrosion-resistant materials for our button components.  Rust and tarnish protection is very important to us, and we take it very seriously.

NOTE:  Although our standard button components are completely machine washable and dryable (and suitable for outdoor use), we don't recommend washing buttons made with cardboard inserts.  Some customers have done it successfully, but we like to err on the side of caution.  We're still testing the pivots - will report results soon.

My finished button is stuck inside the bottom die.  How do I get it out?

This sometimes happens with thicker fabric.  Hold the bottom die firmly in both hands and push on the plunger with your thumbs.  Or, hold the die firmly in one hand, and with your other hand pull the plunger out - give the plunger a sharp slap with your palm.

Either way, the button should pop right out after one or two tries.

I made Pin Buttons, and the clasp doesn't hold tight to the post.  How do I keep it from slipping off?

Our clasps have an exclusive DOUBLE LOCKING MECHANISM.  To set the mechanism:

 1.  Insert the Pin Button into your treatment (not shown).  Pinch the tabs on the clasp together as you normally would, and slide the clasp onto the post as far as it will go.

2.  Now, push the tabs down and push the clasp down on the post again.  You may feel a slight "give" as the clasp sets more securely.  It takes a little practice, but your clasp will stay tight.

ALTERNATE METHOD:  Push clasp tabs down first, then pinch flattened tabs just enough to slide clasp onto the post.

NOTE:  3/8" posts (the shortest) don't generally require this extra step.

The fabric is pulling out of my finished button.  How do I stop that from happening?

Your fabric has a loose weave, or is very lightweight.  We recommend fusible interfacing for loose-woven fabrics, and suggest you experiment with various types, such as non-woven and knitted, to find the one that works the best.  We also recommend backing thin fabrics:  fusible interfacing, muslin, flannel, and even Polarfleece have all worked for us with various fabrics.  We especially like using knitted interfacing with linen and linen-like fabrics.  Again, experimentation is the key.

Light interfacing or lining will also prevent metal button shells from "shining" through thin fabric.



The cutter isn't cutting my fabric circles all the way around.  Am I doing something wrong?

Round cutters work best with thicker stacks of fabric - this is especially true of larger sizes.  If you don't have a lot of fabric to cut at one time, use a few sacrificial layers on the bottom.  We found Polarfleece works well for this, but anything you have lying around should work.

Why are button sizes so strange?  Why do you say "40" or "45" - what does it mean?

The industry uses an old English measuring system, based on "lignes" (pronounced "lines").  40 lignes equal one inch, so a #40 button measures 1" diameter, a #45 measures 1 1/8" diameter, and so forth.